Oh give me a home….


We’re back in beloved Hawaii. We came back a few weeks early so that we could find a home before K started working. Five days later and eight rentals visited we’re, as the English say, knackered.

Last year, the first place we visited ended up being our home for nine months. It was such a great experience–in some ways the best home K and I have ever had together. We thought that this time around it would be an even easier process.

Not so.

We’ve visited a pole houses five miles up a mountain, condos in gated communities, a sweet little beach house on Lanikai; and an A-frame on lush Kaneohe bay. Each place was lovely on one hand and completely not right on the other.

We see our time here as an opportunity to really live a happy life. Manhattan is so rough, so challenging–it’s like living in a game show. But it’s our home and probably where we’ll live for many years to come. In contrast, we want to treat our limited time here in Hawaii as a real experience with as little compromises as possible.

It’s been an adventure. We’ve met such a range of people. One lovely woman let us drink beers on her lanai and then handed us fluffy towels so that we could take advantage of their private beach access. Another woman took a break from her store to show us her home for rent and then left us there with instructions to enjoy the space. One woman told me, when I politely said we were going to keep looking, that I could call her anytime to chat if I needed a girlfriend on the island.

Remarkable.

Even more remarkable is that K and I have no place to show for it. For now we remain in a hotel using baby bottles of shampoo and conditioner, eating at restaurants for every meal, and occasionally reminding one another that wherever we are together is home.


Yawk!

IMG_0257
We’ve been home in New York for just a little over 2 months now. I’ve been meaning to blog but have been lost in my thoughts, unable to articulate what being home feels like. Reconnecting with people and trying to feel normal in this bustling crazy town has taken up most of my brain power.

When we first got here I was so occupied with noting the differences between being here and being in Hawaii. The thing that struck me as the funniest and most perplexing difference was that everyone in New York is on their cell phone. Which isn’t a spectacular observation but it takes being away to see how odd it is to be surrounded by people having passionate, personal conversations everywhere you go.  Even when you’re sitting in your tiny apartment with your window open and someone decides to stop right under it and berate some faceless sap for drinking too much, or not wanting to get married, or for flirting with someone’s best friend.  The first day after we arrived we were buying drug store supplies and a South Asian girl behind us on her cell phone declared to the person on the other end that there wasn’t any other person in the world that she could confide what she was about to confide. Meanwhile there were about 5 of us on line with her.

But that’s what it’s like here. We live in tiny spaces with roommates or partners. Most of the day is spent walking to either meet someone for lunch, pick up your dry cleaning, attend an event, or go to a dr’s appointment. I find myself constantly on the phone ranting or raving about something or someone completely unfazed by the strangers walking alongside me just a couple of feet away. It’s like being woven into a crazy rug.

I missed Hawaii terribly when we first got here. I was very pleased with myself whenever someone said to me ‘you’re so calm!’ or ‘Hawaii is good for you!’. I was worried that being back would wind me up again and that I’d lose that aloha spirit. Perhaps I have because being here feels alot more normal than living across from a beautiful beach and driving thirty minutes to buy mac nut kona coffee.

We head back to Hawaii in four weeks. I can feel the nervousness stirring up again as we shift from being here to getting ready to be there. It is, at least, not an uninteresting existence.


A hui hou!

img_0212

It was a mad dash for us to pack up our life in Hawaii for the Summer and head back to NY.  We had four days after K’s family left.  K was incredible.  Encroyable!  He was a packing/moving machine.

It was very sad to leave.  In our last few days we ran alot of errands.  Did our last Meals on Wheels route and donated anything we couldn’t store or  bring back to NY.  We had alot of food.  I gave Hawaii Food Bank a call and they said they could take anything that was unopened.  Even perishables!  We packed a box and brought it to their drop off location.

img_0217

We didn’t get to buy much pasalubong this time around but we got some stuff.  Like a color copy of Kalapawai Market:

IMG_0233

…trinkets from a store we’d never noticed before at Ala Moana mall:

IMG_0219

I saw these for future pasalubong:

IMG_0223

And as we left I had a chance to snap a pic and say goodbye to my favorite koi:

IMG_0222

At least I’m pretty sure that’s him.

All in all it was frenzied but complete.  We had one of my favorite meals for our last lunch:

IMG_0236

We found out what happened to that gecko that hitched a ride with us to the gas station a few weeks ago:

IMG_0228

And we took a final quick swim at our beloved Kailua Beach.  I’d packed all my bathing suits and put them in storage so I had to go swimming in my nightgown.  It was awesome.  24 hours later we were in NY.  My heart is filled with love for Hawaii.  It was a great season and I can’t wait to come back.

IMG_0171

NEXT STOP: NYC

Party time!

img_02051

We all went kayaking on the canal by our house on the day of the I Love Kailua! town party.  All this time in Kailua,  we never went kayaking.  I personally never thought to kayak on the canal.  I thought the water looked a little yucky but once again I was wrong.  We had great fun.  I loved seeing the different homes along the canal. A few months ago K and I saw a sale listing for a house by a canal.  The copy read ‘the charm of canal living’.  I couldn’t stop laughing.  I thought it was the funniest thing.  In my mind it may as well have read the ‘charms of garbage dump living’.  I don’t know why canals have such a bum rap in my mind.  Maybe because I worked off of Canal Street in NY or maybe because K told me that the Ala Wai Canal has a the reputation of being a swamp.  Point is, the homes that we saw while kayaking were in fact charming and it felt very relaxing to float down the canal.

img_0207

By the time we arrived at I Love Kailua! it was in full force.  The elusive Tat’s Shave Ice truck was even there.  There was only about an hour left, lots of people and long lines.  We got scrips but the only food I got to try were these little baby donuts coated in sugar and cinnamon.  They were like funnel cake only little baby donuts.  We also caught a couple of impressive performances at the Hula Stage.  K pointed out that despite the gentle movements if you looked closely you could see the dancer’s hands shaking with the effort.  Like ballet dancers!

img_0208

Food thoughts

One afternoon we headed up to the North Shore to show K’s family where he works sometimes.  I was excited to try Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck.  I thought it would be hard to find but after calling them and getting some directions we found it quite quickly across from McDonalds and right before Cafe Haleiwa.

img_0198

By the time we got there, they only had shrimp scampi available.  The portion was generous: two scoops of rice and a dozen shrimp.  We were all pretty hungry.  But not as hungry as Kevin.  He ordered a second shrmp scampi and finished it as fast as the first plate.  The next day I asked him about it and he said, ‘because it was delicious!’  Just thinking about it now is making me kind of hungry.

Sarah, Steven, and I got on the topic of Zippy’s one night.  I said that we hadn’t tried it because I thought it looked ‘not good’.  Sarah described it as a kind of Hawaiian institution.  She explained that even her parents would go to Zippy’s when they were in town.  With that in mind we took K’s family there the next morning for breakfast.

img_0204

It was pretty delicious.  I had eggs with cheddar cheese and corned beef hash. They were right.  If I’d known about it sooner we’d be there all the mornings that the line in front of Boots and Kimos was too daunting.

In closing, I know I’ve talked about this before but the mango pudding at Royal Garden in Ala Moana is so yummy.  Not too sweet, totally creamy, totally refreshing. I could imagine carrying around a bunch of these in a cooler bag as a mid-day snack.

img_0203

Frog in Nancyland

K’s brother hated the creature part of Hawaii living.  The geckos freaked him out at night.  Talking to him about it reminded me how similarly I felt when we first moved to Hawaii.

For the most part I’m cool with Hawaii creatures.  But one night, when K’s family was visiting,  a gentle rain suddenly developed into a flash storm.    The air felt really thick and fragrant.   All the doors and windows were open and I peeked out the front and saw the oddest thing.

dsc02047

I almost yelled for K, but didn’t want to alarm the whole family.  I grabbed my camera and went in for a closer look.

dsc020491

I swear to god it looked like it was on the verge of talking to me.  I looked at it for awhile.  I took more pictures than this.  It was so unsettling.  Doesn’t it look like he has a message for me?

dsc02048

Tropical Thunder

I’ve written before about the great farm we get our coffee and macadamia nuts from.  Tropical Farm is in Kaneohe and it takes us 30 minutes to drive there but the coffee is so good that we don’t mind.  They grow and package all the mac nuts and coffee right there on the farm.  Not only do we love the coffee, visiting the farm is always nice because it’s kind of festive and welcoming.

There are always tour buses coming through.  And once K and I noticed that they did hourly tours of the farm.  While K’s family was here, we took one of these tours.

img_01731

It was weird!  I mean I found it really weird.  K thought it was fun.  But it made me kind of depressed.  Mostly because the performers/tour guides seemed to really be tired of the whole schtick.  Imagine giving the same tour 5000 times, growing tired of it, then having to give it another 5000 times.  Our tour felt like the one after that.

They drove us around the farm on a little green bus.  The farm itself was so beautiful: birds of paradise, guava trees, coconut trees, mangoes…all manner of greenery and fruits.  But the little green bus was spewing so much exhaust that I could only smell the fumes.  And the driver would drive by long palm fronds that would smack you in the face because there were no windows on the bus.  I couldn’t tell if he was doing it to be funny, passive aggressive, or if he just wanted us to feel the like anything could happen.

Next they brought us to a stage/pit.  He made fire from rubbing two sticks together and then another guy came out and started doing tricks with the fire.  I couldn’t help but wonder what this had to do with coffee or mac nuts.  He then showed us how to open a coconut with a sword…actually, a spear then a sword.  At one point the fire starter said, ‘I hate my job’.  I couldn’t tell if he was joking.  And if he was, I don’t know why that’s funny.  For the finale we took a twirl around a man made pond on a big boat/canoe.

The guy giving us the tour, despite his traditional polynesian costume, had a whole Benny Hill style act.  Lots of innuendo.  Which again, I found oddly out of context.  I think I would have rather seen the room they pack all the delicious mac nuts in and what measures they take to ensure freshness.

The people on the tour were almost as bad as the tour guides.  At one point the tour guide stopped the bus and asked if we knew what a guava was.  Duh, who doesn’t know what a guava is??

From the seat behind me a haole says, ‘no’

So the our tour guide hops off the bus to pick us some guava and says, ‘do you want to try guava?’

From the seat behind me haole says, ‘no’

Sheesh. Then why are you here?  It was all in all, kind of sad.  I kept the guava for awhile.  I didn’t eat it.  But I like it as a jam.  None of this experience changes how I feel about Tropical Farm.  I will go there again and again.  But I think that they should rethink their tourist offerings.

Aloha nui loa

img_01631

I did my reading on Thursday!  It was so great.  I was so nervous but ultimately it was cathartic.  K did a run through with me at home and he gave me some great notes.  I think he’s a natural director.

Amalia put out a serious spread together for the pre-reading reception. I brought ginataan and it was mostly finished by the end.  The reading had a very intimate vibe.  I really enjoyed it and am very glad Michelle invited me.

K’s family came.  So did Sarah, Steven, and Seth which was very awesome.  There wasn’t anyone else in Hawaii that I cared to have there.  It was complete.

Sarah and Steven gave me the lei in the picture.  It’s a puakenikeni lei.  It’s so pretty but it’s also very very fragrant.  I have it hanging on the lampshade by our bed.  At night, three days later, I can still smell it.

Just the facts ma’am (LP)

K’s family arrived last week.  We planned some activities in Oahu and a trip to Kauai.

Our first big adventure was a sunset sail on Island Dream Catamaran in Oahu.  We were the only ones on the boat.  We saw a double rainbow and a slow burning sunset.  I’ve never watched a sunset like that before.  Maybe the last time I saw something comparable was on the dock of West Peak Inn in Honduras.  I think sunsets are best enjoyed quietly.

dsc01916

Two days later we set off for Kauai.  Checking in at the airport I stood behind a woman with beautiful flowers in her hair.  Her name was Martha and she was on her way to the Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo to watch her daughter dance.  I told her the flowers were pretty and asked if I could take her picture.  She said yes then reached into her bag and gave me one of my own (along with two bobby pins). I will always remember Martha for giving me flowers when I needed them.

dsc01927

We arrived in Kauai and my first thought was that I loved it, that I could live there for part of the year.  Maybe even longer.  A lush warm island, it smells like wood and nuts.

img_0151

We stayed in Hanapepe in a doctor’s house.  He rented us half of his home, which was three floors and and five rooms with a living room. After we settled in we mistakenly headed for  Hanalei/Princeville thinking it was close enough to drive for dinner.  It took three hours.  We raced down the one dark highway hoping to reach the North Shore before all the restaurants closed (as we hadn’t eaten since breakfast).  Thankfully we found Postcards in Princeville.  We made it 15 minutes before their last seating.  The environment was leisurely.  The service warm.  The food delicious.  I was pretty sleepy at the time so I don’t really remember my meal except that it was Ahi and it had macadamia nuts. And I liked it.

dsc01942

This first trip to Kauai was characterized, for me,  by the awesome people we met doing all the activities we did.

We booked the Waterfall Tour with Safari Helicopters.  At Safari Helicopter our orientation guide on the ground, Sherell had us laughing the whole time and made the periods of waiting zip by.

The tour was spectacular of course.  Sometimes I would slip into feeling like I was watching TV because the ride was so smooth and the view so overwhelmingly beautiful.  But at the end of the tour as we flew over the Napali Coast, the helicopter glided down into a valley surrounded by towering cliffs.  At one point all around us were waterfalls.  It was so beautiful I wanted to cry.  It was so beautiful that I decided not to take a picture.  But here’s one of the Napali Coast instead.

dsc01968

Our lodging was on the south end of Kauai in Hanapepe as I said before.  If I could do it again,   I would probably stay closer to the North Shore.  Hanapepe is charming and small--billed as the biggest little town in Kauai.  On Friday nights they have an art night for the little galleries along one charming road.  They open their doors late and apparently serve wine etc.  We didn’t really get to explore Art Night. It seemed very nice and community based.  But it didn’t feel entirely welcoming.  We walked into a couple of galleries and then headed home.

dsc01978

The doctor who rented us the house told me to make sure to have dinner at Hanapepe Cafe for the only night they serve dinner (the same night as Art Night).  I’m really glad that I experienced it because I don’t know that I’ll go back there when we return to Kauai. The restaurant itself was very comfortable and the food was delicious.  I had Ono in a lemon butter sauce with purple yams and grilled pineapple.

Later that night we went to The Point at Sheraton in Poipu to visit Sarah who was there coordinating their dance party. We didn’t stay long.  Just enough for one drink and some talk.  Albeit short, seeing Sarah gave me a big boost.

dsc02001

The next day was breakfast at Kalaheo Cafe then the Wiki Wiki Zip line tour with Just Live.  It was a fantastic day.  Not only because I was able to face some serious fear of heights issues, but it was cathartic.  After the zip lines, we all attempted their rock climbing wall.  I made it to the top.  It was exhilarating.  What made it extra rewarding was the passionate support that the  instructors  provided.  Particularly Nikki who’s like a zip line angel–awesome energy.   Just Live’s focus is team building for youth.  You can tell by the way they handle everything that they’re probably very good with kids.  They’re reassuring, informative, kind, and most of all fun.

After the high of that experience we didn’t want to just go home.  We headed to Poipu Beach which we had only seen in the dark.  It wasn’t dark this time.  I think watching the sunset at Poipu was the most relaxing thing I experienced over those five days.

img_0128

The next morning K and I had alone time at Gaylord’s for breakfast.  Awesome buffet.  Loved it.  Very rejuvenating.

img_0139

It’s pretty incredible the things that we did in such a short period of time.  The very next day we went for a three hour ATV tour with Kipu Ranch.

img_0142

I loved driving the ATV.  At first it was really scary but that quickly dissipated.  Our guide Cody was very fun.  We saw peacocks and pigs on the trail.  And at one point a cow ran right in front of my ATV.  Our trip to Kauai consisted mostly of pre-packaged tours.  I normally steer away from packages.  I assumed the ATV tour would be a bunch of tourists riding around on a carefully tousled field with some rock obstacles created for us to drive over–and maybe that was the case.  If it was, I was definitely fooled.   We rode 13 miles down into a spectacular valley and up to an elevation of 11,000 feet.  Cody stopped along the way and shared the mythology of some of the awesome natural sights.  For me, the most powerful part of the whole day was reaching the end of the trail.  Cody had us walk up onto a little plateau and look out over the most beautiful beach cove, Kipu Kai.  No one was on it.  The only way to get to it was by taking the ATV tour or by boat.  From where we stood you could see the waves rhythmically reaching the shore but because we were so far away we couldn’t hear them.  It was like watching a living breathing giant.   I’d like to go back there again.

img_01471